The Events of Monday, July 25, 2011

                As our time of departure draws near, both Jim and I are experiencing crazy sleep patterns. Before our trip I averaged four or five hours of sleep a night as I tried to tie up all the loose ends and get everything organized and packed. As we prepare for the end of our trip, there are no loose ends to tie up or organize and since we have been living out of our suitcases, really not much to pack up. Yet, one or the other of us wakes up at 4:30 am and can’t get back to sleep. Today was Jim’s turn and he enjoyed a nice walk on the mountain. Although it wasn’t as early, I still awoke at six and couldn’t get back to sleep. Eventually we woke up the kids and started on the day.

                The plan for today was to find somewhere nearby for a hike. Bürchen is a resort town that must be really busy during the winter ski season. However, it is not very busy right now, and we have encountered few others vacationing in the area. First on the agenda was a visit to the local Tourist Bureau, which was closed Saturday after 12 noon and closed all day on Sunday. We were hoping the TI could give us some updated information on the local weather and the weather for Zermatt, home of the Matterhorn, and suggest some good hikes in the area. In Bürchen, a visitor must pay a tourist tax at the Tourist Bureau and register their presence. So that task needed to be completed as well. We were also in desperate need (okay, desperate may be too strong a word) of an internet connection.

                Arriving at the TI, we quickly completed the necessary paperwork and paid the required 40 SF. We learned the weather would be cloudy but clearing, with no rain in the forecast (finally‼) and were given several pamphlets about hikes in the area. We noticed an internet corner, advertising 15 minutes of internet for 2 SF. Given that most places in Switzerland are charging 12 SF/hour, this was a good deal. The kids quickly went to work. Using our USB chip, Caitlin downloaded and posted a week’s worth of blogs and then we checked our emails. 57 emails‼ We skimmed through the important ones and found nothing that demanded an immediate answer. Caitlin, with Ben’s help, then downloaded some of the prayer letters we receive electronically to the USB chip so we can pray for these missionaries during our family devotions. While Caitlin worked on the computer, Ben and Jim studied the hiking map and found a good hike for us. In the end, we spent about 30 minutes on the computer, but the nice lady only charged us 2 SF.

                As we drove to the top of Moosalp, the mountain where the village of Bürchen resides, we discussed Swiss economics. We have been very surprised at how expensive everything is in Switzerland, especially since the exchange rate is fairly good. Often we wonder how the Swiss can afford anything, given the prices we are seeing. On Saturday, when Jim and I went down the mountain to nearby Visp in search of an internet café, we briefly checked out McDonalds which sometimes offers a WiFi connection via a “McPin” given out with a purchase. While there I saw that a Big Mac meal costs 11.90 SF. Since a Swiss Franc exchanges for $1.20, that 12 SF Big Mac costs $14 or $15. That’s expensive by U.S. standards! Last night at the Café du Vieil-Ouchy, the cheese fondue for one person cost 24 SF. With every purchase, when we convert it to dollars, the prices are outrageous by American standards. So we started talking about using a different standard and as we drove we developed the “Big Mac” standard. Using the “Big Mac” as our unit, our cheese fondue only cost about 2 Big Mac meals – not really all that expensive. And our internet access of 2 SF, was downright cheap, about one-seventh of a Big Mac meal, or 50 cents. The 5 SF chocolate bars? Why those cost less than half of a Big Mac meal, really not all that expensive at all. While this “Big Mac standard” doesn’t really help our bottom line, it does give us a new perspective.

                After winding our way up the mountain, surrounded by gorgeous views at every turn, we finally reached the top. A cacophony of cow bells and bellows accompanied us as we hit the trail. Our destination was Augstbordhorn, or its nearby shoulder, March peak, the summits above the inhabited “top of the mountain”. Initially the trail was a gravel road, steeply climbing via switchbacks. As we climbed we heard a strange tune. Abby, immediately exclaimed, “An alphorn!” However, looking down the hill, I saw the culprit. It was the mountain bus, sounding its horn to let potential riders know that it had arrived at its next stop. As we climbed higher, the bus noise dropped off. Yet the cacophony of cow bells continued. It is uncanny how far the sound of a cowbell travels.

                 A group of hikers had set out just before us and we kept passing them and being passed as we alternated rest periods and times for pictures. Soon we reached a junction and decided on the “road less traveled by”, and that made all the difference. In Switzerland, “Bergwanderweg”, or mountain trails, are marked with white/red/white striped paint blazes on signs, and yellow diamond blazes if it is a “Wanderweg”, or walking way. We left the Wanderweg and chose the Bergwanderweg. Following the signs to the top via the hiking trail was at first much more picturesque and definitely less crowded. However, as we turned a bend we found ourselves ascending a rather steep ski slope. That was a little disappointing, though the girls soon had a solution for this. They found that by walking backward, they could master the incline while taking in the breathtaking scene around us. At one point, Ben offered an “assisted ascent” and pushed Lindsey and Abby up a portion of the hill. Near the top of the chair lift, Ben, now a little ahead of the others, found a potential lunch spot. I, however, was looking for something with a better view than a ski slope. Crossing the slope to the next ridge, I found what I was looking for – some nice rocks to sit on overlooking a fabulous view of snow-covered peaks, mountains and quaint villages far below.

                After lunch we headed up the part of the mountain above the ski area. Lindsey, our mountain goat, clambered up the narrow, rocky path. Near the top, we noticed a hiker with poles descending rapidly. Lindsey, Caitlin, Jim and Ben stepped off the path to let her pass. Abby and I attempted to clear the path as well, but she indicated that we should go higher, saying in German that this part of the path is better for two persons or something to that effect. As she passed us, I noticed that she was an older woman, probably in her sixties. Most of the sign posts for the hiking trails in Switzerland include the destination and an estimated duration of the hike. We’ve been told that Swiss senior citizens are used to clock these hikes. Watching this older woman quickly and sure-footedly descend the hill we were struggling to climb, I finally understood why it was often taking us longer to complete a hike than the estimated time. As we set off again, I heard a whistling sound. I had read that the marmots that inhabit these Alpine peaks whistle to communicate. Standing still, Jim spied the marmot first and we all watched as it made its way down the hillside to perch on a rock. Abby snapped a photo and we were on our way.

                As we neared what we thought was the summit, a cold fog moved in. Taking a rest stop, we consulted the map. We could not determine if the summit we were seeing was the March summit or Augstbordhorn. Having already decided to descend on the more traveled path, we had to at least reach the March summit to find that path. We decided to hike on until we found where the paths intersected. Rounding the bend we found a signpost; we had discovered the junction. We descended to a nice grassy overlook and ate some cookies. Quickly chilled by the fog and the wind we were soon on our way, descending the mountain. We reached the car shortly before 3 pm when our parking permit expired. The drive down the mountain was a bit more adventurous. The road is very narrow and at one point we were face-to-face with a bus. Jim crossed to a small open area on the opposite side of the road and let the bus pass. Since our car has a French license plate, when we do something crazy in the car, we always excuse our action by saying, “That’s OK. We’re French”. We probably owe the French nation quite an apology for the bad reputation we have given its drivers.

                Returning home, we enjoyed a relaxing afternoon. Jim needed the most computer time to work on putting together the June photo album so it can be posted, finishing his blog and dealing with some of our finances. So while he worked, the kids and I began some preliminary packing. After setting aside travel outfits and backpack essentials, we segregated out the liquids. On our trip over to Europe, it was smooth sailing through security due to our prep work and we are hoping for another easy transition when we return. After this the kids read and worked on schoolwork or on the computer until it was time for dinner. Tired of pasta and red sauce, I made macaroni and cheese using emmentaler Swiss cheese to have with our sausages and candied carrots. Swiss chocolate for dessert made the meal.

                After dinner clean-up, we discussed our plans for visiting Zermatt and the Matterhorn tomorrow. There are several hiking options in the area and each of us shared our opinion of which to take. Then I read to the family about the formation of the Matterhorn and the car free city of Zermatt. Then we watched the video of Jim dancing to the yodeling song at the Stadtkeller last Monday. Still chuckling, the kids headed off to bed. Now that my final blog is finished, I will be joining them soon.