The Events of Wednesday, May 25, 2011

                The name “Isle of Skye” comes from the Norwegian words Es, meaning “island”, and Ski, meaning “cloud” or “misty”. Looking out the window this morning, the name is self-explanatory. Monotonous gray clouds were reflected in Loch Snizort, the small inlet near our house.

                The clouds started misting our windshield as we began our driving tour of the Trotternish Peninsula. First we drove from our cottage in Edinbane to Portree to visit the tourist information office. Dad picked up a couple fliers about our drive and a music festival. Then we zoomed off with Mom at the wheel and Dad narrating the tour. We drove a little ways before arriving at our first stop: Bridalveil Falls. Lindsey hopped out to take a couple pictures of the gushing water, and then we continued our tour. The next sight on our scenic drive was the Old Man of Storr. This rugged volcanic plug rises eerily on a mountainside. Its eeriness increased with the mist and fog rolling around the gray rock.

                After a quick hike to an unspectacular waterfall, we were back in the car and headed to Kilt Rock. The Rock is more of a cliff face that faintly resembles the form of a kilt. Above horizontal sedimentary layers, volcanic rock formed vertical bands. It didn’t look much like a kilt, but it made for some great photos. Nearby, a creek, swollen with rainwater, poured off the edge of a cliff into the sea. This was a spectacular waterfall. We piled back into the car and continued up the rolling hills. The roads had only a single track (one lane), but thankfully had passing areas every hundred feet or so. We passed grassy fields, cemeteries, fuzzy Highland cattle, and frisky lambs during our drive up Trotternish Ridge. At the top was a parking lot, a popular base for hiking in the rugged rocks. Since it was rainy, cold, and extremely windy, we decided not to hike. Instead, we enjoyed the scenery from the warmth of the car while snacking away on our picnic lunch.

                After the delicious meal, Mom drove us on, through the rain, to the tip of the Trotternish Peninsula. Dad read to us the story of Bonnie (or beautiful) Prince Charles and Flora MacDonald. Prince Charles, the grandson of King James II, was the rightful king of Scotland. He recruited several Highland clans to help him fight the English for the throne. However, the Hanoverian (English) army outmatched the guerrilla-style Highland fighters in a battle on an open plain. After the horrific loss, Charles fled to the Isle of Skye, where Flora MacDonald disguised him as a maid. As a result, Bonnie Prince Charles escaped detection and fled to Rome. Later, Flora was thrown into the Tower of London for her treasonous actions.

                Soon after Dad finished the story, we arrived at the Museum of Island Life. We climbed out of the car, purchased tickets and an explanatory guidebook, and headed into the first thatched cottage. These five original thatched-roof cottages, perched atop a grassy hill, tell the story of life on a Highlands “Croft”. Crofts are small plots of land leased to tenant farmers, who raise sheep and cattle. Since the soil was poor and conditions were tough, crofters usually had to work other jobs to feed their family. We visited the croft house, the barn, a weaver’s house, the old smithy, and the Ceilidh, or meeting, house. Each wall was full of artifacts, text, and old photos explaining the traditions and conditions of croft life. Looking at the houses and stories of croft life, I was incredulous. It was inconceivable to think that, at one point in history, most of the population of the island lived in these small cottages. Through their rich culture, they survived. The families, although very poor by today’s standards, shared a love for life that warmed the cottages more than any peat fire. The tightly knit communities, where everyone depended on others for their livelihood, were more important than a limited income.

                In addition to historical interest, the cottages were also of architectural interest. Because of the high winds, the roof’s thatching would blow off unless it was held down. The smart crofters hung stones from the reeds to weigh them down. To deal with the wind, the houses are also built low to the ground with thick walls. The slight curves of the walls are a unique early form of streamlining. Who’d have thought?

                To finish our driving tour, we headed back along the coast to Portree. To warm us up after our cold day, we headed to a recommended ice cream parlor. Here, we each enjoyed a large cone heaped with ice cream. Altogether, we enjoyed three kiwi, a mango, a chocolate, and a strawberry cone. It made us even colder than we already were, but it was scrumptious. Our next stop was the local library, where we managed to get online for half an hour on one computer. Although we completed some internet chores, we wanted more time to answer emails, research, and plan. So we plan to return tomorrow morning.

                When we arrived home, we were still cold from our ice cream. I guess we were crazy to have ice cream in this cold Scottish weather! To warm up, we enjoyed some hot tea and the fabulous heaters in our cottage. We enjoyed a meal of tacos and frosted fruity pastries before congregating in the living room. Here we played some games and worked on the computer. Since we had some extra home time this evening, we decided to watch a movie. Dad and Abby chose Hijack!, an old thriller. We just thought it would be a stupid movie to fill our time, since none of the other choices were short enough or appropriate. But when Abby figured out the TV, we suddenly were watching Dumb and Dumber. We couldn’t figure out how to switch from the DVD to the VHS, so we settled to watch that instead. It was really a dumb movie and, in the end, a regrettable choice. In spite of the lame plot, dirty humor, and stupid characters, we enjoyed a night of warmth and laughter in our Sca View House.