The Events of Wednesday, May 18, 2011

                In most photos of Ireland’s top sights, sunlight bathes the stunning panorama. An alluring expanse of blue fills the top of nearly all postcards. But in the ten days we’ve been in Ireland, not a single day has passed without some precipitation. This morning was no exception. Nor did it improve during showers, breakfast, or devotions. Then, on the drive to the Cliffs of Moher, the clouds suddenly dissipated and gave way to mostly clear skies.

Great Cliffs of Moher

Always stunning and windy

Ocean meets green hills

                The Cliffs of Moher are always windy, as we learned the second we stepped out of the van. The cold, biting wind still found a way to sting, even through all the jackets, hats, gloves, and scarves. Bundled up, we made our way to the visitor’s center. This new, environmentally sensitive structure is a huge complex built into the hillside above the cliffs. We found our way to the exhibit center and entered the Atlantic Edge audiovisual presentation.

                The show took us on a virtual flying tour around the Cliffs and into the ocean as we sat on the “edge of the cliff”. Three screens created a panorama around us; the floor acted as a fourth screen. Honestly, the show needed improvement. The side and bottom screens were distorted, and the animation did not look realistic. Despite its deficiencies, it provided a basic education about the ecosystems of the cliffs and the ocean. It highlighted each of the important, interesting, or rare species that thrives in the region.

                After two cycles of the show, we left the theater and headed back into the exhibit center. There were several quality exhibits about the Cliffs and their history. The name ‘Moher’ comes from a nearby ruined fort by the name of ‘Mothar’. Silt from an ancient river piled up over time, creating layers of rock. The erosive forces of wind and waves gradually cut away the rock to expose these layers. It is strange to think that these strong winds and waves are still chipping away at the face of the Cliffs. In a couple hundred years, this top tourist destination will look very different. Other exhibits explained the negative impact of human interference. Ever since tourists ‘discovered’ the Cliffs in the 18th century, the steady flow of traffic accelerated erosion and destroyed the delicate ecosystem. The constant wind also causes fatalities when visitors get just a little too close to the edge. Fortunately, authorities are taking action to preserve this magnificent landscape and the lives of stupid tourists.

                With our brains full of information about the Cliffs, we ventured back into the whipping wind to see this spectacular sight. First we headed north, toward the iconic O’Brien’s Tower. With the sun glinting off the waves and the wind flattening the grass, the magnitude of the 650-foot cliffs was striking. This was an instance of Ireland’s iconic green hills meeting the faces of sheer rock that plummet to the ravaging sea. It seemed to be a balanced battle between the land, eager for westward expansion, and the sea, restraining the threatening cliffs. And we were there, sitting on the sideline of this battle of nature’s forces.

                Fighting the wind with every step, we had fun experimenting. We could jump up…and float backwards. Mom’s windbreaker filled with air, making her look like a big blue bobble-head balloon. Eventually we made it to O’Brien’s Tower, the stone turret built in 1832 to overlook the majestic cliffs. If admission was free, we would have climbed the tower for the spectacular view. Instead, since we were at the northernmost point of the path, we headed back southward, past the Visitor’s Centre. Mom pointed out the spot where, eighteen years ago, she and Dad crawled to the edge, lay on their bellies, and looked down at the foamy waves. Now there are signs, barriers, and brightly dressed rangers to stop you from getting too close to the edge.

                At the southernmost point, the slate barrier wall turned a corner and ended. Right at the end were signs in several languages reading “Do not go beyond this point.” “Danger! Dangerous Cliffs ahead.” “Private Property. Do not enter”. Nearby was a memorial to those who had lost their lives falling off the cliffs, perhaps a subtle warning to those who ignore the signs. Past the warning signs, a path followed the edge of the cliff, but there were no barriers to keep people away from the edge. Unlike the groups of other tourists who climbed over, we followed the law and headed back to the van.

                Our next destination was Doolin, a small coastal town famous for the traditional Irish music in its three pubs. McGann’s Pub ended up on our itinerary as a must-see recommendation, so we thought we would head there for lunch. A very friendly waitress sat us down, told us about the specials, and took our order. Soon the plates arrived, piled high with steaming food. We started our “taste and pass” chain to get a taste of each delicious dish. The Atlantic seafood chowder was thick, creamy, tasty, and full of mussels and chunks of fish. Then there was the Irish beef and vegetable stew, a hearty concoction of potatoes, carrots, and chunks of meat. The sausages and mash (mashed potatoes) were good, but even better when drowned in gravy. A chili sauce added some spicy flavor to the potato-and-fish cakes. Then we tried the local fish and chips, made from the catch of the day, which most of us considered the best we’ve tasted so far. The last dish was something new: deep fried brie cheese. It was strange yet scrumptious.

What do you get in a pub?

Order a bunch of pub grub!

Served with a beer,

With friends huddled near,

Fried food in your neighborhood pub.

                After enjoying the good Irish ‘craic’ (pronounced crack) or conviviality, we headed out to the van. There was a definite contrast between the warm, dimly lit pub and the bright sunshine and crisp wind. Our next destination was Kilfenora, a small town situated in the middle of the Burren. The Burren is to Ireland like southwestern Texas is to America; it is the middle of desolate nowhere. To learn about this unique physical and cultural region, we headed into the Burren Centre. This museum started with a sleep-inducing movie and then took us into the exhibit area. The exhibits, which covered all the walls, gave us a good sense of the region’s uniqueness.

Big barren Burren

Gaelic for the “rocky place”

Vast bumpy rock flats

                Physically, the Burren is a relatively flat, rocky plain. There is no surface water and few large plants. In the last ice age, glaciers carved the limestone, etching long striations into the rock. All of the rain (which there is plenty of) does not run on the surface into rivers. Instead, all the runoff soaks into the rocks and flows in underwater rivers. These invisible waterways create tunnels and caves in the soft rock. When water does collect above ground, it forms small pools. Then the water dries, and the hole is filled with gravelly dirt, plant remains, and animal feces. This mixture is a perfect combination for all sorts of exotic plants. Tropical plants, arctic plants, carnivorous plants, and other nonnative plants are able to thrive in the barren Burren because of this special soil.

                Historically, the Burren is not a very hospitable place to live. The area was first inhabited by Stone Age men. Then came the Celts, the Normans (or Vikings), and the British. Each group, even with advances in farming technology, struggled with farming the uncultivable land. This region was one of the most devastated during the Famine from 1845-1850. Raising cattle, able to survive on the coarse grasses on the rocks, became the dominant trade in the region. Cows now have a unique mutual symbiotic relationship with the Burren. In winter, when the fields are barren, farmers graze their cattle in the Burren. The cows need the grass to live; if the cows weren’t there, the Burren would be overrun by grasses.

                When the museum closed, we headed to the nearby church and cemetery. This church, built on the site of a sixth century abbey, is in ruins. Although it was worth a quick stop, the real highlight was the cemetery full of the Celtic High Crosses. The ground was full of graves, most of which were marked with a tall Celtic cross. Some were plain and some had intricate carvings. No matter the decoration, the cross with a circle was everywhere. The tallest and most famous was the High Cross, located (for some bizarre reason) a hundred feet west of the rest of the cemetery. We walked over, snapped a couple pictures, and then continued on our scenic drive.

                We drove back in time from medieval Catholic to ancient Celtic times. There was a stone circle fort, built for cattle protection, on top of a hill. Since the attraction was closed by the time we arrived, we took photos from the car. Then we went further back in time to the Stone Age at Poulnabrone. ‘Poulnabrone’ is the Anglicized form of the Gaelic ‘Poll na Brón’, or Portal Tomb. We learned about this special wedge-shaped tomb when we toured the Irish National Heritage Park in the southeast. Exhibits around the tomb added to the information Jimmy (our tour guide at the Heritage Park) gave us. This specific tomb contained the cremated remains of around 25 people, who were probably wealthy or honored citizens, able to pay for the construction of such a lavish tomb.

                Our time-travel drive zapped us back to the present. The next part of our drive was about scenery, not history. We drove through Ballyvaughn, around Leprechaun’s Head to Blackhead View. The viewpoint gave a stunning view of Galway Bay, the peninsula on the other side, and a faint glimpse of the Aran Islands under mostly blue skies. Having completed our driving tour, we headed to our house overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.

                Since we enjoyed a lunch out, we settled for a “linner” (lunch for dinner) tonight. Since this residence comes with a panini maker, the special tonight was Dad’s croquet monsieur and, for dessert, ice cream with chocolate sauce. After the meal, we packed our bags in preparation for our move to Connemara tomorrow.