The Events of Monday, April 18, 2011

                Our goal for today was to explore Basque country, or in Spanish, País Vasco, and learn a bit about its history, its culture and its food. To that end, we headed off to the coastal resort of San Sebastián. The Basque region covers the border area between Spain and France. This people group has existed for more than 7,000 years and for the most part has been insulated from mainstream Europe. They have their own flag, cuisine, and common language, Euskera, which uses a lot of Xs, but is spoken by half a million Spaniards and French people. Even the road signs list a city name in Spanish and then again in Euskera.

                As we left the mountainous region of Mungia, initially the TomTom GPS in the car was mute. Presently we have the voice set to “Richard”, and I tease Jim that he doesn’t like taking directions from another male as it challenges his “alpha male” status. But Jim says he turned off the voice because it was annoying to hear the errors repeated. So I don’t know whether it was because the GPS voice was off, or due to poor signage, or our inability to discern which of several curly-cue options to follow on the visual map, but we made a wrong turn and soon were lost. In fact, we were literally off the map of the TomTom GPS. Thankfully we have two GPS systems going at all times, and the other GPS seemed to know where we were. It led us down and around this steep curve, through a narrow tunnel under a road, up the curvy side of a mountain, and then back down the other side. Meanwhile, the other GPS had us driving off road, through space, as it obviously didn’t have these tiny mountain roads in its repertoire. Finally, we were directed to turn left, and, behold, we were back on the highway.

                An hour later, we turned into the lovely resort town of San Sebastián. We didn’t have a particular destination, but Caitlin had located a tourist information center and a parking garage nearby. So we plugged this into both GPSs, and they proceeded to lead us in two very different directions. First, we followed one, with no success, and then we followed the other. Both kept leading us to a construction site, and it took us a little time to realize that the parking garage was under construction. (Later we learned that not only are they building a state-of-the-art parking garage, several stories below ground (and under sea level), but the plans also include the installation of a lap pool on the top level of the parking garage, just below street level. Should be interesting.) By now, we had seen quite a bit of the city, including driving along the beachfront promenade that runs the length of the bay. We decided to look for the tourist information office and pull into any garage that was nearby. Success!

                Leaving the garage, we soon found the tourist information office. While Jim and Caitlin (our tour guide for Spain) went inside to get maps and information, the rest of us had a chance to people-watch. There are many areas in San Sebastián that are open only to pedestrians, and we were on a pedestrian boulevard. We watched a young boy play violin, kids scootering by, and three young men, walking barefoot carrying their kayaks and paddles and dressed in their kayaking gear. Soon, Caitlin came out, excited with the plans for the day. We were going to take a walking tour of the Old Town and Mount Urgull.

                We started at the La Bretxa market, so named “The Breach” for this is where English troops penetrated the city during the siege of 1813. Our first turn led us to Fermin Calbetón, a most atmospheric street full of irresistible bars and restaurants. This was precisely where we wanted to be. It was past lunch time, and Caitlin had on the agenda to sample some certain Basque cuisine, specifically:  bacalao (salted cod) best cooked with á la bizkaina (with tomatoes, onions, and roasted peppers), merluza (hake- a light fish), and chuletas (massive lamb chops). As soon as we turned onto the street, the delicious smells were overpowering. Dutifully, we followed Caitlin and Jim from restaurant to restaurant as they checked the posted menus for the above dishes. One restaurant would have two, but not the third; another would have only one, another none. And it all was quite expensive. Finally, Caitlin called Jim back to look at Beti-Jai, a bar-restaurant. Although a bit pricey, it served all three dishes, so we decided to go inside and order and share just these three dishes.

                Inside we trooped and were directed downstairs into a very nice dining room with white tablecloths. The room was empty; it was only 2 pm, so we were “early” for a Spanish lunch. However, the lack of other customers gave us our waitress’s full attention. She and Jim conversed in Spanish, and I was amazed that he could follow her rapid fire speech. After she brought us a complimentary appetizer (fried cheese balls), she helped us with our order. We decided to order the two fish dishes - bacalao and merluza, prepared in the traditional Basque way and two lamb dishes – a roast lamb and the lamb chops, chuletas. On a whim, Jim decided to ask about the “soufflé” which needed to be ordered in advance. It turns out that this soufflé is another Basque specialty that serves two. Jim decided to order one and hoped that there would be enough to serve six at least a taste.

                We enjoyed delicious bread while we waited for our meal. As we munched, we noticed the restaurant was beginning to fill. Soon, our dishes arrived, and they were delicious. Jim divided each dish into six, and there was plenty to go around. Our waitress, checking back with us and clearing our plates, asked if we were ready for dessert. “Sí, Sí” was the reply, but we could not have been more wrong. We were not ready for THIS dessert. She approached the table carrying what looked like a huge meringue pie, over six inches tall with meringue peaks going in every direction. In her other hand, she carried a small metal pitcher and a box of matches. With a flourish, she lit the liquid in the pitcher and poured the flaming liquid over the soufflé. Every eye in the restaurant was on our table, and the kids’ mouths just dropped open. Then she quickly served each of us an ample portion. As she served, I commented to Jim that this was supposed to serve 2? He translated my comment to our waitress and she replied that it is better for six. It turns out the soufflé had a crunchy nutty crust on the bottom, then pineapple and then sweet crusty meringue. Delicious, and to have lunch and a show was quite a treat.  

                After this sumptuous lunch we strolled down to Constitución Square. Colorful facades, with numbers painted above every balcony, reminisced of the days when the square was once a bullring. Next we walked down the only street in the city to remain standing after the 1813 pillaging of the city, 31 de Agosto. 31 de Agosto ends at the San Vicente Church, the oldest in the city, built at the beginning of the 16th century. Peering down the street, we could see the stately spires of the Santa María Basilica, which lies at the other end of 31 de Agosto. Climbing a steep worn staircase, we soon found ourselves on Paseo de los Curas (The Priests’ Promenade). This shady walk runs along the top of the city wall and gives a great view of the busy port and docks below. We decided to skip the climb up the hill to the English Cemetery and the Sacred Heart monument. The day was getting warmer, and most of us were in jeans and getting downright hot. Our walk ended at the San Telmo Museum, an old Dominican monastery that houses an important collection of Basque culture. We had hoped to add to our knowledge of the Basque culture, but the museum was closed.  

                Our next decision was an easy one – how to get cooled off. The initial plan was to walk the beachfront promenade to take in the breathtaking Bay of Concha. However, as we approached, we could see the beach teaming with people, and decided that wading in the surf might be just the thing to cool us off. And we were right. The water felt cool and refreshing as we walked the length of the beach. It is Holy Week, and it seems everyone is on vacation, so the beach was packed with swimmers, waders and sunbathers. Several people were very sunburned. Upon noticing a few sans bikini tops, we encouraged the kids to stop people watching and just enjoy the water and the sand. After reaching the far end of the beach, we ventured up to the promenade to check out the available shopping. Not finding much, we returned the way we came, walking slowly through the water. Returning to the promenade, we walked barefoot, carrying our shoes until we reached a shady park with grass and benches. After de-sanding, we made our way back to the car and returned to our home in Mungia.

                After “linner”, our standby lunch for dinner when we have had a big meal midday, we cleaned up and headed to our rooms for some downtime before bed. As Jim and I were monopolizing the computer and the internet, the kids read and then put themselves to bed.  Soon, I was in bed too, but Jim worked far into the night trying to find us housing in Ireland, Scotland, England and Belgium. Poor guy, he has done such an excellent job finding us housing like our present “chalet” that the expectations are high for what Daddy is going to find next. Eventually, he made it to bed after securing another week or two worth of housing.